27 AugSmoky Topaz Ring

There is a specific “look” that is synonymous with a popular 90′s jeweler that many designers have adopted. You’ve probably seen it–mixed metal (sterling and gold) with some sort of twisted metal accent. While this is not my favorite look, I do have customers that love it, and I try my best to make my customers happy. So, when a customer came to me for a “push gift” with a request to make a ring that referenced this style, I was happy to incorporate that into my own style to make something that she would love.

What is a “push gift?” It’s when an expectant mother picks out a piece of jewelery that she would like once she gives birth. I guess the tradition of the old days, where somebody like my mother got flowers and a heartfelt thank-you for a difficult job done well, are evolving into jewelry gifts. That’s a tradition I can get behind. Certainly moms deserve plenty of recognition for all that they do.

The customer decided that she wanted a smoky topaz cushion-cut stone, which I mounted with the pointed side up, as it seemed to suit the style of the ring. The ring itself is quite hefty, which I think will be good for everyday wear for busy mom hands. Here are the results of the custom design:

custom smoky topaz ring in sterling in 14k yellow gold

custom smoky topaz ring in sterling in 14k yellow gold

custom smoky topaz ring in sterling in 14k yellow gold

custom smoky topaz ring in sterling in 14k yellow gold

19 AugThree Little Fishes bracelet

Every year, I donate a piece of jewelery to the Leo Almeida Memorial North Shore Striped Bass Tournament. It’s a fishing tournament with proceeds that benefit several North Shore (Massachusetts) food pantries. If there are any fishermen or fisherwomen that will be in the area in September, please consider joining this tournament. And even if you aren’t local, donations and raffle tickets may be purchased at www.northshorestriper.com. Please help support this great cause and help provide food for those in need.

One of the prizes from this year’s raffle drawing will be a one-of-a-kind FabMartha bracelet. Every year I try to do something with a fish theme for the tournament. This year’s “fishy” jewelry is a sterling silver handmade chain bracelet, with three fishy links included in the design.

Three Little Fishes

Good luck to all of the fisherfolk out there and good luck in this year’s raffle!

19 JulRing’s diamonds find new life as earrings

A customer of mine had a white gold ring that had been in her family for a while. She had inherited the ring, which was a beautiful antique style but showing some wear and in need of repair to ensure the diamonds wouldn’t fall out. She had decided that she wanted to duplicate the ring’s design, but into earrings instead. So, we found another diamond that matched the ring’s center stone, and went about designing the earrings.

The customer decided that for extra security for such nice diamonds, she wanted to have omega backs installed. (Omegas are the clips that swing back against the ear to secure the earrings.) So we added omegas to the earrings. We also agreed that the stones would graduate from the ear down, smallest to largest stone. Here is the result:

Antique-style diamond and white gold earrings

Antique-style diamond and white gold earrings

The really look fabulous, and special-occasion-y! I hope she enjoys wearing them.

25 Jun“Watch” this!

A while ago, a customer came to me with an unusual request. She had a an ladies gold antique wrist watch that she could not get repaired. She wanted to give the watch a second (unintentional pun alert) life as jewelry for her daughter. So, I put together a few designs for replacing the missing watch face with some gemstones from another piece she was planning on recycling, a sapphire and pearl pin. (Pictures of the old pieces are here.)

As an added bonus, I was able to salvage a few rubies from the watch’s internal workings to use as additional decoration on the faceplate. Those all were incorporated into the final design.

The customer was on vacation, so the project went on hold for a while, but once she returned, she agreed to go forward with the design. The resulting bracelet is below:

Redesigned watch

The bracelet will now be passed to another generation for years of enjoyment. Everything old is new again!

03 JunInlay Ring, Sterling Silver

Today’s featured project is a custom piece I did in sterling silver. The inlay blocks are pink opal, simulated blue opal, and a turquoise-like green stone, gasparite. This ring took me a few months to complete, in between other various projects, because cutting the stones to fit their little channels and grinding (and sanding) them down to the right thickness, as well as the shaping process, was very time consuming. And the ring is large sized, so of course larger stone pieces needed to be found for the inlay. But all in all, it was worth the effort. I hope the recipient likes her new jewelry.

inlay ring

As well as wearing this piece as a ring, I think it would be a cool pendant too.

26 MaySweet Peas and Daisies

This ring was done as a birthday gift for a very sweet 16-year-old. Her favorite flowers are sweet peas and daisies, so the ring incorporates both of those flowers into a twining vine design. The piece was designed in CAD and then milled and cast, which allows for a very delicate and uniform design, while still being organic and natural.

Sweet pea and daisy ring, view 1

Sweet pea and daisy ring, view 2

Happy birthday, Sweet Pea! :)

20 MayCustom Sapphire and Diamond Ring Completed

A while ago, I had blogged about some CAD designs that I had done for a remount of a customer’s sapphires and diamonds. (Those entries are here and here.)

The customer wanted to change the linear look of her old setting and move the stones to sit more at the center of her finger. In addition, we discussed changing the metal from 14k yellow gold to platinum. After several consults, she decided that she liked the look of prongs best, as it would remind her of her old ring setting while she could still enjoy the updated look.

Here are some shots of her old ring, before the changes:

before

before

And (drum-roll), here are the customer’s stones newly mounted in her new, custom platinum ring:

after

after

after

The stones look very nice in their new platinum settings.

14 AprFabricating a Sterling Silver Knot Ring

I recently took an order to create a sterling silver knot ring. The customer and I wanted the piece to be substantial, so I took a few extra steps to draw a piece of sterling silver wire to the exact thickness that I wanted to use in the project. For those of you following along at home, here are the steps that I took:

I started with a piece of heavy-gauge sterling silver wire and filed one of the ends to a point.
knot1
knot2

The pointed end of the wire is used to fit into the hole of a draw-plate. The wire is then pulled through the draw-plate by use of a draw bench. Because the hole of the draw-plate is of a slightly smaller diameter than the wire, the wire is drawn into a smaller diameter size. This process is repeated with smaller and smaller holes until a wire of the desired diameter is obtained.
knot3
knot4

As you can see from the pictures, the wire is clamped in the draw bench and the pulled through. My draw bench uses a pulley system (and some good ol’ hand-crankin’ muscle power) to pull the wire, forcing it through the smaller opening.
knot5

The wire is annealed as necessary, keeping it soft enough to be drawn thinner.
knot6

When drawing, the wire thickness is checked using a B&S gauge until the desired thickness is reached. I am going to use 11 gauge wire for this project.
knot7

Using a jeweler’s saw, I cut two lengths of wire, and then anneal them.
knot8
knot9

I use half-round pliers to form each wire segment into a “U” shape.
knot10

The segments get nestled together into the basic half-hitch shape, and then pulled tightly together with the aid of a vice and hand-vice.
knot11
knot12

Using the destination ring size as my guide, I cut the ends of the wire to the correct length. In this case, I’ve chosen to stagger the end cuts to disguise the seam in the back a little more fully.
knot13

The seams between the wires is now soldered together so they will lay together neatly, side by side.
knot14

Then the ring is formed into its round shape and the edges are checked again to make sure they are flat and fit together. The ring is then soldered into round.
knot15

Using a mallet and ring mandrel, the ring is rounded and stretched into the correct size.
knot16

After that, it’s time for finishing and polishing. And here’s the finished product:
knot17

31 MarThere Once Was a Watch…

What do you do if you’d like to give your daughter your gold watch, but can’t find a place that will fix it? Give it new life as a redesigned piece of jewelry, of course!

A customer came to me with her beautiful gold watch. She wanted the watch to be inherited by her daughter, recently having become a mom herself. The watch was missing its face and hands, and no longer ran. She had tried several places that fix watches, but the movements were too old and she couldn’t find a place that would take on such a repair. So, she decided that she’d see if she could have the watch re-made into a bracelet. “Of course!” said I.

watch-before

The daughter is a nurse, and had a few requirements of her soon-to-be bracelet. She wanted the bracelet to be an everyday wear piece, so it should not be anything that is too delicate or would have catching pieces. Because she washes her hands a lot, the piece needed to be sealed so that no lingering water would stay in the watch-bracelet. And she prefers streamlined, modern-looking objects.

So, with that in mind, I set to work on a new design. The customer also has an old sapphire and pearl pin that is missing a few pieces, and so we also decided that we’d use some of the stones from the pin in the new bracelet design as well. Another added bonus is that the remainder of the stones and pearls will be saved for a future project for her granddaughter, and the old gold can be refined to offset the cost of the watch rehab project.

Wanting to use some of the tiny rubies from the watch’s movement, and keeping the bracelet’s overall “watch-ness,” this is the design that mom and daughter liked the best:

watch final design

The watch winding crown will be kept, to remind the wearer of the bracelet’s origins, but all else will be soldered and sealed up tightly, with the stones being set in the watch’s former face. I’ll be starting on the project soon and will post pictures of the finished project.

28 MarSapphire & Diamond Ring Design, Part Deux

Do you remember the designs from Sapphire and Diamond Ring Redesign a few weeks back? Well, this weekend I met with the customer to discuss which design she liked the best. Her pick was #1, because, as she explained, she liked the grouping symmetry and thought that design would work best for her aesthetic and look nicest on her finger. But, she did have some concerns that the prongs on the diamonds on the outermost top and bottom of the grouping would end up catching on things. Since this is a ring she intends to wear every day, with the active demands of her job as a nurse, we discussed modifying design #1 to better suit her lifestyle. Additionally, she’s decided that she’s going to change it up a bit from her current ring setting, which is all yellow gold, to a new look for her diamonds and sapphires, and is therefore planning to go to all white metal, either white gold or platinum.

So, with that in mind, here are the new designs that I plan on showing her this week. The first design moves the diamonds together at the edge of the ring, but otherwise maintains the basket settings that the customer has with her current ring and likes a lot. To minimize the issue of catching, I’ve designed some metal beads to sit between the clusters of diamonds at the edges and the sapphires at the center of the ring, which would reduce the “crannies” where fabric or other items would have an opportunity to catch.

G2

To eliminate catching prongs even more, another option is using bezel settings for the outside stones (the diamonds). There are no prongs on bezels, so nothing to catch. To better match the prong settings, but still maintain the “feel” of the basket settings, I modified the sapphire settings to be more bezel-like too, with straight-edge walls that would be cutout to mimic basket settings, and used prongs to secure the stones.

H2

Finally, it’s the same stone arrangement, but this time using all bezel settings. This design moves furthest away from the basket-set style that the customer originally desired, but I think makes for the cleanest look and is least likely to suffer from “catching” problems. I like the way this design came out a lot, and I’m curious to see how the customer will react. It’s much different than her current setting, but she may decide that with a new custom setting, a whole new look is in order for her stones.

I2

And so goes the consult for the new custom ring. I’m excited to see which one she’ll pick. Which one do you like best?


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